Boot or shoe



(No Model.) 2 Sheets-Sheet 1'. J. P. SHEA & W. BROWN.

BOOT 0R SHOE.

Patented July 20 1886.

jff gm gm? N. PETERS, Phclo-Lflhugrapher. Washingkm. n. c.

(No Model) 2 Sheets Sheet 2. J. P. SHEA & W. BROWN.

BOOT 0R SHOE.

No. 345,993. Patented July 20, 1886.

N4 PETERS, PhoKo-Lithugrapher. Wuhin mn, D.c

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

JAMES P. SHEA AND VILLIAM BBOVN, OF \VAUPUN, IVISCONSIN BOOT OR SHOE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No, 345,993, dated July 20, 1885.

Application filed August 3], 1885. Serial No. 175,721. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that we, JAMES P. SHEA and WILLIAM BROWN, citizens of the United States, residing, respectively, at \Vaupun, in the county of Fond du Lac and State of \Visconsin, and XVa-upun, in the county of Dodge and same State, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Boots and Shoes, of which the following is aspecification.

Our invention relates to improvements in welted boots and shoes,whether sewed by machine or by hand; and the objects of our improvements are, first, to have the inner sole in a welted boot or shoe smooth onits upper surface, with no thread, nails, or other substance to show on said upper surface; second, to allow a shoe or boot with a welted fore part to be sewed through and through inner sole and outer sole in the shank without the stitches showing on top side of inner sole. We attain these objects by the process illustrated in the accompanying drawings.

Figurel represents aview of inner sole split or divided. from back of heel to edge of fore part nearest heel, with the top part thus split turned up. Fig. 2 represents the inner sole ready for lasting, with the top part thus split laid or doubled over 011 the fore part of the same. Fig. 3 represents a View of inner sole split or divided from back of heel to breast of heel and the top part thus split turned up. Fig. 4c is a central vertical section of an entire shoe embodying our invention. Fig. 5 is a bottom plan of the sole portion, and Fig. 6 is a central longitudinal section of Fig. 5.

Like letters indicate like parts in all the figures of the drawings.

By our method we prepare the inner sole, A, as follows: \Ve split or divide it from back of heel D to nearest edge of fore part, as shown in Fig. 1, then channel the fore part, as at B, Fig. 5, in the regular way in use for welted shoes. IVe then lay or double the top part, A, of the inner sole (split or divided, as shown in Fig. 1) over on the fore part of same, as shown in Fig. 2. The inner sole is now ready to be tacked on the last. After lasting we sew the welt O and upper F on the fore part of inner sole, then sew the fore part of outer sole, B, to welt, and the shank of the outer sole to the inner sole through and through, all this stitching to be done either by machine orby hand. Next we attach the heel D, after which we put the top split part of inner sole (which has during the previous operations been doubled over on the fore part) back to its place and cement, glue, or stick it down securely.

In welted shoes, as usually made, where the welt is sewed in fore part and shank, we split or divide the inner sole from the back of heel to the breast of heel, as shown in Fig. 3, then lay or double the top part of the inner sole thus split over on the part of the inner sole immediately in front of it, and allow it to remain there until the heel is attached,when we put it back in its proper position and cement,

glue, or stick it down securely.

Instead of laying or doubling over the top split part of inner sole, as described, we may elect to cut an orifice in the last to receive such top split part.

IIeretofore in welted boots and shoes, as usually manufactured, the nails, wooden pegs, or other fastenings used in attaching the heel and the part of outer sole directly under heel to inner sole penetrate through the top side of the inner sole, rendering it necessary to cover up such nails, wooden pegs, or other fastenings with leather or other material, both to protect the feet and the stockings and to hide the unsightly appearance of such nails, wooden pegs, or other fastenings. By our method this piece of leather or other material is saved,and the boot or shoe is more desirable with a smooth uniform inner sole than with one where a part of it has to be covered.

The chief advantages of the welted boots and shoes made at the present time are flexibility and a smooth inner sole from the toe to the breast of heel. This flexibility is desirable only in the fore part, not in the shank.

lvlanufacturers aim to get the shank rigid, so that the boot or shoe will retain its shape. A welt in the shank is not essential or beneficial if the smooth inner sole can he had without it. The additional thickness which the welt gives in the shank detracts from the appearance of the shoe, having a tendency to make it look clumsy.

' A striking advantage of our methodis, that we can manufacture a boot or shoe with a welted fore part and have a smooth inner sole in the shank without using a welt there.

We do not claim that the idea of weltiug the fore part and sewing the outsole and inner sole through and through in the shank is original with us. It is an old method, but has not been in general use, because there was no practicable way of stitching through and through outer sole andinncr solein the shank without the stitches appearing on the top side of inner sole.

What we do claim as our invention, and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States, is

The combination, in a boot or shoe, of a welted fore part, an outer sole, and an inner 

